All in all the training went well, it was a huge pain to plan, and as it was the first year, we didn't have a lot to go off of, but I think next year will be even better. I know some people were frustrated that we couldn't do some of the activities sooner (like at their Jan. IST), but I know that I gained a lot from it and I only have a few months left here, so the new group who have a year left, will have plenty to do between now and the next meeting. Anyway, I met some great people from Kayes and have a couple of meetings scheduled already!
The day after the meeting I went to Bamako for a quick trip to do some medical stuff but I was thinking while I was on the bus on the way back today that y'all needed a little Mali Transport tutorial. My bus ride this morning was probably the best one I've been on since I've been in Mali. The only bad part was that I had to get up at 3:30 am in order to get to the station on time for our 5 am departure. Since everyone who bought tickets was early we got to leave the station early. Gana transport is an anomaly when it comes to transport companies.
You have to buy tickets in advance (you can buy them up to a week in advance) and before everyone can board they call out your name and check your ticket before you get on. Most companies only allow you to buy tickets the day the bus is leaving. Many still call out names but it is never as organized as Gana. Once I was on the bus I managed to snag my favorite seat (the one by the back door, so no one can sit behind you and you can recline your seat!). Then I blew up my neck pillow (given to me by my lovely older sister), put my headphones in and dropped off to sleep. After a bit the AC came on so I wrapped up in my previously packed bedsheet and cuddled up next to the window (and involuntarily, my seat mate). This was on a brand new bus. About 1/3 of the way through the trip they turned on a movie (yes, there is a TV) and we got to watch Blade in English with German subtitles. Seemed appropriate. I slept through most of the movie but caught the middle of it when they brought me my complimentary croissant and soda. I slept soundly for the 7 hour trip. That's right 7 hours. On my very first ride to Kayes it took 16 hours. SIXTEEN! That was when there was a 130 km stretch of unpaved road. They finished that about 4 months after I arrived and then lowered the price to get to Bamako. That same bus ride it rained most of the way and leaked through the roof and windows on to me. I was also alone with my homologue to whom I could barely speak because my Bambara was so bad. Anyway, development is sometimes faster than you expect and shows up in places you don't expect. When you get off the bus you give them your ticket and they locate your checked bags for you (you can't get your bags without your ticket, so very very organized).
So here are some pictures of other modes of transport in Mali:
Above is a bus I took from the town of Dialafara to Kayes, it took 5 hours to get 150 km. The inside of the back was gutted and they put benches around the walls. The middle was packed with heavy rice sacks and bidons filled with palm oil, gasoline or water. The roof isn't as packed as usual. It isn't strange to have the load on top be as tall as the car itself. If you look closely you can see my pink bucket hanging off the side! The great thing about these cars is that they allow a great deal of dirt to come in so when you get off you look like you've been mud wrestling. It take 2 or 3 showers to get totally clean and at least 4 loads of laundry to get all the red dirt out. These rides are particularly cozey, on this one a little boy slept in my lap.
This is a picture taken from inside a Peace Corps car (see the radio antenna?) I'm pretty sure someone asked "Is it dead?" Well, it was. Those bamboo cages on top are filled with live chickens and guinea fowl.
Here's another picture of some sheep on top of the bus. Right before one of the big Muslim holidays, the one where everyone is supposed to sacrifice a sheep, every bus is loaded with sheep going to Bamako to be sold. Sometimes even the insides are filled with sheep instead of people.
Mom, if you think I over pack...what about this?
This is what an average bus looks like in Mali, not so great considering it looks like they put it together themselves. These kinds of cars are usually only used for shorter distances. In between village and towns. The larger charter buses go from city to city.
This is the bus station in Bamako for Gana Transport. Behind that blue gate is where people stand when they are waiting for their names to be called. On the left are a conglomeration of people selling food, snacks and accessories.
Many many people use donkey carts to move stuff and people. They use them for garbage collection and for general transport. Sometimes they even move livestock in them.
This is a Sept Place (Seven Places). So...that means there are 7 seats. But Malians don't work with proper logic, they stuff 9 people in these and the last time I took one there were 10 people stuffed in it.
The TRAIN! The Kayes region is known for two things, how freaking hot it is and the train. This train goes from Koulikoro (a town north of Bamako) all the way to Dakar Senegal. It's not that reliable and as you can see from the photo below, not all that comfortable, but it's the TRAIN!
I just love the sheep on the roof. One of the guys tried to get me to pay him for taking this picture...I said if anything I'd have to pay the sheep, but I don't think they mind...and he let it go.
My friend Nicole getting comfortable in the backseat of a Bashe (also called a Sotrama). This is what I was talking about before when I said they gut the inside and put benches around the walls.
Q: Why have we stopped?A: We're out of gas.
This is a typical conversation. You'd think after doing the same leg of road over and over they'd figure out how much gas they'd need to get all the way there. Oh well.
Packing up boats with mattresses and cargo to head up to Timbuktu and Gao!
Moto taxi...he was posing with his cigarette, he's not really that cool.
Me in the back of a moto taxi!
Emily's wheels! And you can bet that's real fire (a combination of how hot it is here and how fast I ride!).Also...Election day is Sunday, so I'm going with my friend when she goes to vote! All the communes are electing new Mayors!
0 comments:
Post a Comment